Monday, November 28, 2005

India's Valley of the Gods


Me, Balaji, Sinu and Praveen in front of Hidamba temple


"A five day trip from Bangalore to Kullu-Manali and Agra"

Bangalore......



Nov28, 2005



It was a normal discussion over a cup of tea at bhaygyasagara, a local restaurant near to our Rajarajeshwari flat in Bommanahalli; me, Balaji, Praveen and Sinu were pondering over a trip to see the snow-clad mountains. Balaji was adamant on visiting rather than just talking; but then the place he suggested was Vaishnodevi; Well that was risky hence objections were being raised by the others. So arguments and counter arguments and finally all charged up, we decided on Himachal!!! Inspired by stories from Subhash who had been on a recent trip, manali seemed another option. It was decided to book tickets to Delhi but Sinu turned out to be skeptical as usual. Anyway, Balaji booked tickets online and now there’s no turning back!

Jan25, 2006
Wednesday, came back from office with Balaji at 1200, and went to buy torchlight and medicines which might come in handy. The call taxi came at 1300, we were all packed and reached airport around 1400;the flight was at 1600 and so had bit of a time to spend at the airport. The check in seemed to be a smooth affair, only Sinu our HAL employee was questioned for having forgotten to bring in the tag. Except for Sinu, this turned out to be the first flight for all of us. It was a Jet airways flight; Praveen, Balaji and Sinu were lucky to sit together whereas I had to put up with an old couple to the right. Started thinking about all the untoward incidents I had heard and all the NatGeo episodes that Balaji and Praveen had forced me to watch .The numerous plane crashes, collisions…… Finally the plane started to move along the runway and Sinu starts off narrating his HAL experiences, spending long hours on the runway eyeing Kingfisher and Jet air hostesses’ et al. A 3 minute drive along the runway was all it took; I was chewing the toffees the air hostess had given me when suddenly the plane starts gaining speed and takes off. Hats off to our first flight!

Felt great when I turned left to see all three chums sitting tight , they were all silent; well, I felt great to have not felt any disturbance.But that was only for a minute. Then on I started feeling uneasy, as for the other three, they were looking out of the window and enjoying the view of Bangalore from the skies. Here I was sitting dumbstruck and the old lady had closed down the window. Thought of asking her to shift places? I took a magazine and started going through. To my left the three were still having heated discussions now. Pressure variations, Thrust, combustion, it went on; Praveen started off and Balaji was in no mood to give in .Sinu who was at the extreme to my left was in a world of his own. After an hour and a half, they announced that we were above Hyderabad city and the temperature outside was -35C. There was no time to loose. I made up my mind and started talking to the old man and asked him why the window was closed .He replied in Hindi saying his wife was afraid of looking outside. I asked him in whatever scraps of Hindi I knew whether we could change seats. The result was quick, the reason I came to know only later on!!!!!!!!!!! So now I could see the long winding rivers, small houses, apartments, hills, mountains all through the journey. Occasionally the plane would ascend/descend and the pressure change was felt quick enough.

By around 1830 , we neared Delhi and it started getting dark .It was wonderfulto see the lights in the city, as if they were some huge golden necklaces lying across the earth. Took our luggage and went to the exit; funny to see many people catching placards and staring at us. I got myself readied for the next part of the trip; met the taxi driver and started off; crossed Delhi, Haryana onto Himachal. We passed through Chandigarh and thought of traveling a bit on the grand trunk road. Can still remember a funny caption on a truck which just passed by, a contact number in bold along with the word tag “Mubail...”. Stopped on a wayside dhaba,started to feel the chill. It was around 2200, all took hot roti and pickle except for me who asked for some hot rice. By now we were all geared up with sweater, jackets and all. Stopped at Nehar, had tea there and proceeded to see the river which was flowing towards china; well that’s what a passerby commented! It was already 0100. I was snuggled up in the car and could see the others shivering and moving around outside; got out of the car and walked around confidently, didn’t feel anything but then it started,out of the blue I started shivering and wouldn’t stop. Oofff!!! Praveen was not able to hold even the tea cup. Near the Nehar River, we could hear the sound of the fast currents and feel the chilling cold.….a reminder of what was to come in a few hours from now!!!



Himachal......

Jan 26,2006



Thursday morning we reached Manali by around 0700. We were at the lower ranges of the great Himalayas, the enchanting mystic mountains!




Everyone moved out of the car, to view their first glimpse of the snow, all truly excited but I was still sleeping…The Snow …No one cared to put on the thermals and the woolen socks which were neatly packed up in their bags! In all excitement, we had jumped out of the car to enjoy the scenes around, as a result of which our legs went numb. Still in excitement all the three, except me, jumped out to see the sunrise over the snowy mountains. Then on we spend some time searching for the Youth hostel in manali; finally found the place, it was just across an apple orchard.

Threw down the luggage and geared up in thermals and all woolen attire to fight the cold. All sat in front of the electric room heater, but still took a long 20 minutes to get the feel back onto our toes. They went out for a walk but I crouched back into bed; felt like freezing.
I was lying down and watching through the huge windows, starting out at the snow covered orchard. That was the gloomiest moment, did I come over all the way just to lie down like this; I slept off…… Woke up after a while had breakfast - alu parata/pickles/omlette; this menu would remain the same for the next two days, but it tasted real good! By now I had gained my strength and was quite excited to travel forth!


Hadimba........


Off we went to Hadimba temple. Evening around 1630 we reached Hadimba temple; danced to the tunes of Oslakutti hayi-ra-rabba osallakutti re …. a typical Pahadi song. There was snow all around and this reminded us of the scene from the film Roja (the scene of the terrorist kidnapping the hero was shot here!). On the return trip we roamed around the marketplace and visited a Buddhist monastery reverberating with chants of Om Mani padme hum, had a chance to rotate the Buddhist prayer beads too. For shopping we split - Balaji/Praveen, Sinu and me….Everyone bought few dresses, feng-shui, custom made key chains and dry fruits. The streets were all dirty with the melting snow making it far more worse and slippery.




The Buddhist monastery in the Kullu

Returned back to the youth hostel at night... It was chilling indeed, while lying in bed, a wrong move to one side, and the bed would give one an icy feel…..

Solang Valley......

Jan 27, 2006

On Friday, got up with a vengeance and along with Praveen took off to Oshins house atop the hills! We had to pass through the apple orchard where we could see white blankets of snow littered all across the landscape. Climbed a lot, until we could go no more in the thin air; returned through the orchards, it seemed very silent except for the chill we felt from the icy winds blowing across. Had breakfast from youth hostel, and started off for Solang Valley deviating from the manali-ladakh highway around 40 kms from Manali. Solang Valley is famous for skiing, paragliding and winter games. The landscape changed almost suddenly as we started climbing up, we could now see entire mountain ranges covered in snow !




Scenes along the way to Solang Valley

On the way, we saw a range of small shops very much alike identified by different number tags ( understood the importance of the numbers when we returned back from the valley, without the number tag, one would never be able to identify the exact shop to return the jackets and boots ). We bought jackets and boots for 150 each after so much of negotiations. On our way, we saw the road to Rohtang pass, which was entirely covered in snow. There was a traffic jam, which forced us to so get out and we started walking all the way to the top. The entire area was covered in thick snow…and to the side laid a frozen Beas; the roadside was covered in snow just like scoops of ice cream…..

Thick Snow on the road sides

Praveen , at the top of the Valley

We paid 100 each for the skiing gear and did everyone try his best to ski! Everyone said I had spoiled the group photo of all of us in skiing gear, well.......

Trying a hand at Skiing

Untouched Charters

The weather was perfect for skiing and there we were at the top of the valley which was surrounded by snow covered mountains which in the distance seemed to be tainted with silver and sparkling in the bright sun; had hot tea and snacks from the valley which was now brimming with lots of adventurous visitors.

Trudging along a different path, Sinu trying out his skills

Back from the Valley;Sinu,me and Praveen

On the way back, we trudged through the snow, well we took the route less traveled by and that had made all the difference that day!. Sinu lost his favorite muffler while posing around for the countless photos taken there! This half an hour trek through the deep snow was the most wonderful part of the trip, but a bit dangerous too; in some places we fell right into holes covered by snow; at some points we sunk deep upto our hips! We could hear the sound of the Beas now reduced to a rivulet, silent with the banks covered with white puffs of snow….It was marvelous!

Banks of the Beas

Traffic Jam along the Narrow Pathway

Off to Vashisht, the hot geyser next to the temple of Ram and Vashista . Sinu and Praveen went off to have a steam bath, while I and Balaji went around roaming. Quite accidentally we were about to venture into the women’s bathing area; Now, someone needs to keep a visible railing warning us, Offfgh!!!

In between a snowy ridge- me,Sinu and Balaji


The view of the snow covered peaks was magnificent from the Ram temple; we bought few pahadi caps and shawls from the roadside shops. We returned back to the city and had food from there. After listening to our morning expedition, Balaji is too was much interested in climbing up the hill, so we plan for it early morning.

Jan 28, 2006

Saturday morning,Balaji and I left in search of Chillu guddu –dried flower of the deodar trees .Made a mistake of not carrying a shawl, there was icy winds blowing which had my nose and ear chilled. Had breakfast and listened to the weather forecast which said it could snow heavily that day, so we left early for Naggar castle, and the Russian artist Roerich’s gallery; on the way we could see people busy shoveling away the snow. Our driver was a very soft spoken fellow, Tilak Raj who spoke about the Jwalamukhi temple in his home town where he had some land and even invited us to visit him after everyone’s marriage. Balaji keeps telling about devadharoo, the deodar trees and we stop on the wayside to take some snaps along with the driver, and I hear Sinu promising him to courier the snaps to his home address. No one knows what has happened to that!


Temple at Naggar Castle - Alongwith our driver,Tilak Raj

Together along the way





Naggar Castle, smaller in size, was almost fully made of wood and had recently been converted to a hotel; the Russian gallery was closed. We stop by to have tea at a small tea shop run by a lady…Praveen was busy snapping and playing with the dog there….Me, Praveen and Sinu went offto see the Trimoorthi temple , temple of the three main goddesses. The temple was closed but all the nursery children of the school nearby rush to us, we took a few snaps with them and moved on.

River Beas

View of the town from atop the hills- Note the Beas flowing beside the main road

On the way down, we found Beas, now suddenly brimming with life, recklessly meandering alongside the city. We stopped by the banks of the river Beas and trotted along the banks. The water was freezing cold and the bank was covered with pebbles. Praveen had other plans and within a few jumps he was almost in the middle of the river, standing on a huge boulder. All of us took a pebble or two,Balaji was the luckier one who got a “mortar and pestle” combination, which is still being put to good use back in kottaram.

Further down,we stopped by the Kulu Shawl Factory, where we bought shawls and carpets…We were in awe, seeing all the rose-cheeked and fair salesgirls, well was that the reason we ended up shelling out almost 10000 there?.
Left kullu finally, and lo, just on the outskirts we were waylaid by a traffic policeman…..He asked us to follow his car to the police station next to the bus stand…He spoke rudely to the driver and the offence was for not stopping the vehicle when ordered to! Tilak Raj tried lying, saying that the car was belonging to sinu’s uncle’s friend Rtd army Cmdr Amarjeet Singh!...At the police station we were told to wait outside; and there we were next to the fruit market waiting for an hour! An awesome sight it was, school girls waiting for their buses, fruit sellers with fresh apples and the market women all around us. We waited outside the station, cool winds sending shivers across; after an hour we met the chief there and voiced our concerns, but to no avail. He asked us to pay 300 or else answer in court, only later when paying the fine we realized that they were using old receipts and that this was just another way to increase their own revenues! The trip back was through numerous hills and huge tunnels, it was a sight worth seeing, with the Beas flowing in full force alongside, but sad to say I dozed off in between. Well, nausea, weariness all bore me down, I used to signal them when the car had to stop and would jump out and rest for a few minutes. Got into one fine looking hotel and had some food, I made the mistake of ordering an omelet to everyone’s surprise, and later to everyone’s horror including mine, when we saw that it was black in color. Whatever I ate, I vomited on the way, felt like jumping out and sleeping on the roadside.

Jan 29, 2006

Well, Sunday morning we crossed over Chandigarh onto Delhi and Agra. At Delhi, Sinu left for his uncle’s house. Reached Agra at 0830 and lodged into a motel, where they charged 200/- just to finish our early morning chores. Barged into a restaurant where the menu seemed to relate more with some western lands with an omelet costing $1! We had no other choice, but escape and found refuge in a local hotel where we had some bread toast. Well to our surprise we learnt quite a few phrases, the phonetically correct but misspelt “vash vasan” (wash basin). Onto Taj Mahal, the journey took just around 15 minutes. It was too hot, the earth was heating up, it was around 1100 and we did have the privilege of feeling a temperature difference of around 45degrees within a span of 24 hours (-10 to +35). Obtained the tickets and got into the campus. Even the gates were majestic. Well, we stood in awe looking at the majestic Taj; from a distance it looked white but as we neared it we found a yellowish tinge over the main domes. Plus the Yamuna was in a pathetic state, it was all parched up and all we saw was a few muddied pools of water along the river bed. It was definitely an architectural wonder and we spend around two hours enjoying the sheer majesty of the Taj. Got into a posh restaurant and had a gorgeous meal. Left for Agra Fort where the most beautiful sight worth remembering was the Taj seen from the fort.

After roaming around till 1600, we decided to leave Agra to reach Delhi early. We were too tired and had the plans of compensating previous night’s loss of sleep. The journey was comfortable and we glimpsed the sun setting on one side of the straight and wide highway. Stopped on a way side dhaba for tea and biscuits. We reached Delhi by 19 00 and began searching for the International Youth Hostel. Chanakyapuri, where the hostel is situated is the home for most embassies and foreign consulates. Hence the traffic rules keep changing according to VIP visits and security reasons. Certain sections of the roads are closed to the public even by 2000hrs. Finally we reached the youth hostel. To our surprise, the hostel quality and service was way above our expectations. Since it was directly run by the youth hostels association of India (YHAI), the rules and regulations are strict. Only members are allowed to stay and in case you are not a member, you have to take atleast a temporary membership. Since it was already late, the warden allowed us to take membership the next day. Found a good restaurant Nirula’s and had a heavy meal, the food quality was too good (later came to know from others that the hotel was a famous one indeed). We had a sound sleep in the a/c room (though the a/c was never switched on).


Jan 30, 2006
Monday morning, we visited the parliament building, the war memorial at India Gate and the Rashtrapati Bhavan. Roamed around a bit, had a glimpse of the Delhi Metro and shopped at the Pallika bazaar for a few leather accessories. But didn’t have much time to spend there, we had a flight to catch. The flight was scheduled at 1530 and we had reached an hour before. But one person was missing, Sinu! And we kept waiting! God, were we tensed. Praveen kept roaming around from one counter to the other muttering whatever came into his mind, balaji was off his boiling point and had become senseless and as for me I got my normal bout with migraine. Two minutes to check in time and in came our hero in an autorickshaw- he had come all the way from noida halfway by bus and rest by auto! We had to run back to the plane, was dead tired indeed. The flight by Sahara turned out to be similar to an auto ride through the sky. Well again went through the awful dreams of the plane crash landing and many a times I did ponder over the idea of having bought in a parachute!


It all ended up as soon as we touched down at the HAL airport at around 1745; I was bought back to my senses by the honking of autos, arguing taxi drivers and the rude behavior of passerby. Well, that’s city life for you…welcome back to Bangalore!!!

For more photoes , visit : http://www.flickr.com/photos/nostalgicmemories/

Thursday, September 15, 2005

Shiva Ganga - Nandi and the Footprints

Shivaraj, my teammate at Infosys suggested this place - ShivaGanga. Saturday morning, left from Airport road to Majestic and further to Yelehanka. Since we couldnt get the car as planned, we had to return back to Majestic stand. Finally, a bus onwards to Tumkur side. We were going North of Bangalore. Dozed off , all geared for the hot journey ahead.



A two hour journey , I could see the drynessall around and as we left the city , there was this distinct presence of Banyan trees on both sides of the road. Had seen this sight too many whenever I had gone to TamilNadu. We were on the Bangalore-Pune stretch and reached our destination in atmost two hours. An auto ride to the foot of the hill. Had tender coconuts , our energy drink....it was a hot hot day after all....



The first climb over the hill seemed moderate. We reached 'Patala Ganga' and went into a narrow slit in the rocks where there was a stream flowing. Lot many stories were told about the stream and its origin by the people around. The water was cool compared to the heat outside. Had to remove the shoes and now I could feel the steaming hot rocks. But then, in a few minutes got used to it and thought it better to walk barefoot. Jumping around for a shade in between to cool my feet , the walk among the hotbed of rocks was a different experience indeed. There was this carving of a goddess on the rocks and a small temple in between the rocks.No lights inside, coudnt see anything. We had to crawl inside.Even the mobile lights were of no use. Pitch dark , but then we did see the lamps burning and a priest came as if out of nowhere and gave the prasadam. We did a pradakshinam, crawling in the dark , using our hands to see where to take the next move. In another ten minutes we were outside again.

Kept climbing and could see many smaller rock cut temples, definitely old, scattered all over the hill. Many were in ruins and lay undisturbed, monkeys clamouring around waiting to snatch a food pack or bottle from tired unwary passersby. Another small climb uphill, we had our prasadam with us; saw this loner monkey coming down at us from uphill. And soon we were watching the loner go off with all the sweets and bottle of water we had with us. Left with no water, we took off for the next half of the journey, occasionally stopping by whenever questioned by the primate pack; just wave your hands out and prove to them there is nothing you have to offer them and they will be gone. Moved on and reached another small spring in between the rocks with numerous beliefs and stories renting the air. We got the theertham from a spring supposed to clear one of all his sins.



Relieved of all my sins, left happily for the next and final leg of the climb. It had turned very steep by now, the rusted iron railings never gave any more confidence to us amidst the strong winds making us feel as though the railings had turned to ropes! We could see lot many Nandi statues of various sizes scattered around , some magnificently laid out on huge rocks, others hidden away from site. There were also these housing areas , could have been where the soldiers used to rest. Scorching heat, we were happy to find an old man selling buttermilk. Never counted how many we had, but am sure he was certainly happy with us spending money over there.



Way on top is the temple , a pillar and lot many engravings all along the rocks. It was told to us that the soldiers had carved their names all over and it had remained there upto this day. The priests here were at war with the primate group, there would have been at least fifty of them.Spoke to the priest there and it surprised me when he said he was unaware of Infosys, the IT boom and how Bangalore had changed.



It was five in the evening then , rested there, slept for a while enjoyed the strong breeze and finally started our descent down. Took an entirely different path downhill, someone had put arrow marks to show the path. We came upon a footprint preserved on a rock, dunno if anyone had ever noticed it. How I wished I had a camera then! Was completely drained off, it was a hot day after all. Bought some grapes from the roadside and gulped them down during the bus trip back to Bangalore city. Was too tired to care about whether the grapes were clean or not!This was definitely one of the best short treks I ever had....

Wednesday, February 16, 2005

Hyderabad - Walk through the Galli

Infosys, Bangalore. 2003-'04.
A . A trip from Bangalore to Hyderabad -a
three month training session for the entire team landed us in the Land of the Nizams!


Two friends who snare at each other, then it becomes really difficult to maintain order. Harper, usual self, his looks-can-kill attitude and Aarthi who just reached in time to hop onto the train. The train took off around 1800 in the evening; reached Hyderabad early morning. For someone from Bangalore, the first thing that comes to mind would be the wide and neat roads and the slower traffic as compared to Bangalore."Our office was situated somewhere near the Gatchi bowli stadium; we used to catch the huge commuter rickshaws which could easily more than twelve people."

Loads of Beer and Rick rides:

Loads of beer and meat with Harper and Jeevan and then cramping into rickshaws at night on our way back.....The nights usually ended up like this.


The Multiplex,Book shoppes and the PanchaGutta
That was one big happening place at that time. It was around Christmas time and Xmas bells were ringing at most of the stalls. Well, all malls have the same story..so nothing else happened other than window shopping.Another thing distinct in memory are the numerous second hand bookstalls around Pancha Gutta. This place was classy, different from the old city image but we did not visit inside.


Charminar and the Mecca Masjid


Unaware of the riots that broke out near the Mecca Masjid, we went to visit both the Charminar and Mecca Masjid! Just below the Charminar, I could see the smaller Devi mandir created at the corner. Its anyones guess why riots do happen over here in this part of the city. The visit to Mecca Masjid asked for more. I had gone with Shivraj and was just peeking inside the mosque, when someone invited us inside for prayer. Was thinking of a way to escape the situation when all of a sudden Shivaraj starts questioning the person on the very existance of Islam. I do wonder why he ever opened his mouth then! Our luck, the person answered calmly and even took us in to visit the graves of the former kings that were buried there. He even blessed us , though later on when he asked for a fee of 200 did I realize what his motive was;he finally settled for a 30. Outside the mosque people were selling old coins, most of which were forged, bangles,corals and other jewellery items.




Koti and the Jain temple

Went to Koti to get some of the famous coral stone necklaces for home. On the way , saw a Jain temple and decided to visit. It was the first time to a Jain temple, though I did get confused amidst the numerous gods all across the place. Took a walk in the crowded area. Made up my mind to visit Charminar some other day again, but alone....



Walk along the Gallis ...Alone.

Came alone this time. Went stright to the smaller streets behind Charminar. It was around 1400 then. No one was there to bother , so became more courageous and ventured far within into the community. Amidst the muslim houses , did see a few houses sporting the saffron flags and few smaller temples . Walked well for an hour and then went back to hotel. It was a good experience for me; bemusedwith the life among the smallest of the streets behind one of the most famous monuments of the country.




Golconda fort...Attacked by the Bees

The fort seemed majestic to me, though it was completely in ruins. It was the first fort I had been to and the immense expanse did show the importance of the fort in those times. I do remember reading the boarding there , saying it belonged to the Warangal tribe and then changed hands until Aurangzeb conquered it.


Along with Shivraj, ventured a bit away from the group. We climbed upon a few rocks and lo we were in between dried vegetation and grasses. Moved a bit more and glimpsed a man and his two kids carrying bottles of honey with them.Little did we realize what was to happen next. A swarm of bees emerged and filled the air. I could just glimpse Shivraj running for cover. Got caught in the swarm, could listen to him shouting at me to run over, but couldnt budge; was in total shock!. Pulled the shirt over the head and just laid down on the ground. In another minute, the commotion ended and they were gone as fast as they had come.Am still amazed why we never received even one bee sting!


Birla Mandir, Hussain Sagar Lake and Salar jung Museum

Climbed up all the way to the Birla Mandir. The view from the top was good since it covered the twin cities of Secunderabad and Hyderabad; the Hussain Sagar lake was in full view as was the Buddha statue in the middle. Salar Jung Museum is one good place to learn about the history of the city and the Nizams. Spend well over two hours there for there were countless treasures that one could feast upon!

Nehru Zoological Park and the Rural Handloom Fair at ShilpaRamam

It was big enough, but definitely not well maintained. Tried my ricks to identify animals through there pug marks, dried faeces and territory markings. Shivraj did believe me, much to Harpers agony and ever since hes been complementing me for this wild behavior. Then there was the Jurassic Park! I don't really want to comment on it. At the exit there was this museum which was showing videos of animals. We made the mistake of paying to watch the so called Documentary. There was just another family with a wailing child.....

The rural hand loom fair was our last stop before catching the train back.Bought a lot of art works, a woodwork painting, some kurtas, some clay work and there was also this amazing tableau of a rural village set up. Amazing it was to watch each hut representing each community that had existed in the past....Good time we had o'er here -the trip was overall, well, - dry and painstakingly silent one!!!!