Lucknow :: Oudh - The Land of the Nawabs

Lucknow
20th March - 25th March

Have heard often that Holi is celebrated in the North of the country with a fervor which couldnt be imagined in the south. And so when Payyans invited me to his home, I quickly obliged!

Shot from the train while passing through Madhya Pradesh

The Perfect Shade...

It takes a full day by train to reach Lucknow from Mumbai .The lands were dry and there was a marked difference from what one would see while traveling down south along the Konkan coast. Lucknow seemed to be far smaller than what I had imagined , but even then it showed how any typical city would be in the North. Small lanes, Cows and Bulls marring the roads, purdah clad women moving around, dome shaped markets from the olden times, mosques and a few temples here and there.......

Holi ...

Previous night, I could see most of the street junctions laid with the 'Hollika' - wood and logs which would be lit by the residents nearby which is the way the locals usher in the festival.

Holika burning at midnight

Mob fury...

Venture outside the house and you are done!!! Outside every house , beside every road the kids stand with the swishers and spring surprise on passers by. And you get marauded by your friends right in front of your houses. People can be seen dancing around on the streets and many a times heavily drunk.

A pose with a few of the junglee kind!

Old Lucknow - New Lucknow

Imambara at Dusk.

Roomi gate;further beyond is old Lucknow

The city seems to be divided though not officially into the old and the new. Old lucknow starts where the Imambaras stand - a sign that religion has still cast its shadows there. A tall white gateway from the Nawabi times tells one that hes entering Old Lucknow. All around you can see age old buildings , some in shambles, small mosques and distinct dresses of a particular community.

An unfinished Karbala

Bhool Bhulaiya, the chotta imambara, bada imabara ,roomi gate and clock tower are reminders of the Nawabi era. The buildings of the East India regime on the other side of the city and the elegant junctions designed by the new government are few other things that catches ones attention.

View from Imambara;Mosque,Roomi gate and the River Gomti

Bhool Bhulaiya

Shukla Chaat house and the Tundai kebabs...

A few of the delicacies which anyone is supposed to have tried at least once. There is a distinct influence of the Nawabi culture and especially in the old city you can hear the clear but a bit different version of Hindi spoken by the locals there. There were not many temples around and definitely not any famous ones. Why and how temples never existed in the past in this area.....well.

Atop Bada Imambara

1857...

Went to the Lucknow residency alone, where one of the main revolts took place. People say the towers are still bearing the marks of the war. Never could have guessed what I was to see over there. The ticket charge is only 5/- and that was to blame. Moved around with a camera in hand, alone and got shooed away from all directions by couples enjoying a quite time together. But this is monument here..hundreds got killed......Who cares !!!

"Here lies Henry Lawrence..."

Memorial of the British alongside the ruins...

Thought of asking someone to click a snap of myself near the graveyard. Found a couple chatting beside a grave of some sorry British officer, the guy thought I was asking if they required a photo shoot and kindly said Not required. It was time for me to leave the place!

The Tonga ride...

Had two more hours left of my stay in the city as we were leaving on the 24rth. After the residency visit, took a tonga and told him to take me to the Moti mahal. But he never knew which one to take me to. Finally ended up seeing a small building in a big garden , very different from the moti mahal picture I saw on the net. Desperate, but left with no time, asked him to take me around the city's numerous narrow streets. Went from Hazratganj to Sangam chouraha, Parivartan chowk, Jankinagar and finally Aliganj.

First time and you never get the control

The Lucknow Railway Station

The tonga driver seemed to be tired; told him to sit back and relax while I drove the tonga. Unlike the other driver yesterday, he willingly allowed me for sometime, until the craze for taking a snap while driving made me look back and narrowly missed falling onto the side drains. Tensed and scared he took over ;reached the house just in time to pack up....Bidding adieu to the Land of Oudh.....